Collection: Whole House Filter Assembly Instructions







We think installing our filter is very easy (if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and have a little experience doing basic plumbing).









If you have an electric water heater we recommend that you turn off the electricity to the heater while installing filter. Once you are satisfied with the installation, turn on a few hot and cold water faucets, and let them run. Once you are certain that there is no more air in your pipes, then turn the electricity back on to the water heater.






Your kit should include:



  • Tall fiberglass mineral tank with distributor tube


  • Box of granulated activated carbon


  • Small box of gravel under bed


  • Large funnel for pouring media into tank


  • KDF Media-Guard canister (there may be some loose KDF fines in the package – this is normal due to a minute amount of media being slightly less than standard mesh size)


  • Autotrol 263/440i control valve


  • Autotrol by-pass valve assembly


  • Tailpieces for valve – either copper or CPVC as specified


  • Autotrol Manual





Step 1:



Location of your filter is important. It should be in a protected dry, level and non-freezing area (34-120 degrees F).






Step 2:



You will need a standard outlet that is not controlled by a switch, which can be 50 feet from your filter.






Step 3:



You will need a drain for the backwashing cycles. This should be no longer than 20 feet from the filter. You will need to purchase this flexible 1/2 i.d. / 5/8” o.d. polyethylene plastic pipe (see step 6). This backwashing drain line will be under pressure when the backwash cycle is working. Make sure the drain line is secured. The drain line will need to drain into a drain, which should be a minimum of 1 1/2” size, and ideally be below the top of the filter valve. Local codes should be adhered to.






Note: Never connect the drain line directly into a drain. Allow an airgap between the drainline and waste line to prevent possibility of back- siphonage.






Step 4:



Once you have determined the exact location of your filter, it is time to fill the media/mineral tank with the furnished media.






The distributor tube should be in the mineral tank. The open end should be sticking 1 1/4" out of the mineral tank. The screen intake should be resting on the bottom, centered.






There should be a plug in the open end of the distributor tube. This is to keep any media from falling into the distributor tube while pouring the media into the mineral tank.






Place the funnel (provided) into the mineral tank. You will find a small box of gravel – this under bed is to be poured in first. Then scoop the GAC media into the mineral tank. Be careful to keep the distributor tube centered as best you can, while filling. There should only be enough media to fill the tank about 1/3 full. It is necessary for the media to have room to move during the backwash cycle.






Once the filling of the mineral tank is completed, carefully remove the plug from the distributor tube. Do not pull upwards on the distributor tube.






Step 5:



Attach the KDF Media Compartment to the control valve – align the slots and turn until it locks in place.






Step 6:



The control valve (head) now must be installed onto the mineral tank. Be sure the large O-ring is in place, and lubricate it with some of the grease provided in the by-pass valve kit box, if needed. Slip the control unit and KDF Media-Guard canister onto the distributor tube. Then carefully screw the valve onto the tank - NO pipe dope should be used on the threads. The control valve should be hand tightened, snugly, clockwise.






Step 7:



You are now ready to install the bypass valve to the control valve. Follow the instructions in the box. The in and out arrows on the bypass valve should be pointing the same direction as the in/out arrows on the outside of the control valve. The arrows are molded into the plastic on both the bypass valve and the control valve.






Step 8:



Water connections to and from filter will now be connected to the bypass 1 1/4"IPS male threads by using the two 1 1/4" Female nuts provided. Slip one 1 1/4" female nut over one of the flanged tailpieces, so that the tube is sticking through the nut and the flanged piece is resting on the inside of the female threaded part of the nut. Use one 1 3/4" o.d. rubber washer to fit into the female part of the nut on top of the flanged tailpiece and screw the nut onto the 1 1/4" IPS male threads on the control valve. Do the same for the other side. Now connect your water source to the tailpieces. Screw on the barbed elbow onto the threaded fitting between the inlet and outlet on the valve – this is for the drain line.






Now follow the instructions in the Autotrol manual for putting the filter into service. Note: water will be discolored with black carbon fines initially – this is normal. For most applications, every 6th day backwash is recommended.






Other Notes:



If using copper pipe, we recommend using type L copper. Type L is thicker than type M copper.






Caution: A common problem for beginners when soldering onto the copper tailpieces is overheating them, melting the plastic nuts that connect to the bypass valve. We recommend that you wrap a wet rag around the nuts and tailpieces to keep the heat away.







Important: Be sure you double-check the inlet and outlet arrows on your filter before soldering!






For the first few days, when you draw a glass of water, it may appear initially cloudy and then clear. This is simply trapped air being purged from the carbon – it will clear up after use.






Remember to check with local code officials and install per local code.







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